There is only one way for a hair supremo to conquer the runway capitals of the world: create unforgettably amazing styles that are perfected with a finish to die for! Wella Professionals Global Creative Director of Care & Styling, Eugene Souleiman did just that at four phenomenal shows that proved to be defining hair moments at the Spring/Summer 2017 shows. New York, London and Paris were the three fashion destinations where Eugene worked his inimitable magic, while confirming Wella Professionals’ EIMI as his backstage product range of choice.
One EIMI product in particular played a pivotal role for Eugene throughout the SS17 Fashion Week season – in fact it took on a unique “can’t be without” status all of its own! That was EIMI Shape Me, a heat-activated hair gel with a built-in shape memorising polymer complex to provide immediate structure and long lasting hold. When applied to wet hair, Shape Me can be easily and quickly combed through – a real game-changer backstage, where every second counts. "EIMI Shape Me is my miracle product,” adds Eugene Souleiman. “It has a great balance of hold and shine, and it’s not too heavy, so you can layer it over other products – it’s really good with Pearl Styler in order to achieve a subtle, strong hold."
KEY CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
Working intimately on the creative direction of a runway show is what Eugene Souleiman loves most about session styling. At the New York Fashion Week SS17 he got to do this not once, but twice – for both the DKNY and Jeremy Scott collections. “SS17 really, really has been strong season for hair,” says Eugene. “It hasn’t been about towing the line and conforming to rules or standards – all the looks have had a real point of view.” Eugene is labelling this ‘The new realism’: “It’s about hair that has a simplicity to it. I think it’s time for hairdressers to hold back and to step away from polishing things up.”
Eugene’s look at the DKNY show typified this concept – the hair was centred on the creation of sharp and geometric deep centre partings resulting in a finish that was really quite graphic, but not over-done to the point where it was over-polished or unrealistic.
For Jeremy Scott’s SS17 collection, Eugene’s scissors created 1980s Sassoon-inspired beret cuts. This look really is masterclass in precision scissoring. The cut is on the bias, shorter above the eyebrow, then getting longer as the style travels round the head. “To ensure the finish I desired, I ran the straightening irons through to flatten the cuticles,” explains Eugene. “I teamed this with a spray of EIMI Glam Mist to give the synthetically shiny look I wanted, as well as some control.”
Back on this side of the pond it was Destination London, where for the Preen show, Eugene created awe-inspiring braids: “Everyone from the Egyptians to the Vikings and beyond wore them – they’re probably the first style women ever learnt to do,” says Eugene. “The opportunities for braids are limitless and we’re finding new techniques all the time, incorporating macramé, ribbon, thread and embroidery, creating different textures, using mixed up proportions and loading them with accessories.”Eugene’s breathtaking braids at Preen were folk-style and outdoorsy, with an early medieval, even Saxon feel.
At the Roland Mouret SS17 show in Paris, Eugene’s emphasis was again back on creating clean lines with a centre parting – similar to DKNY in New York, but this time with an edgy, cooler feel: “Normally I do polished, sexy, elegant hair for Roland, but this time we wanted to give him something with a little bit more edge, a bit younger and cooler. The parting was clean, but the texture through the lengths of the hair was raw, with a bit of frizz. I applied EIMI Dry Me and I then encouraged a flyaway frizzy texture with an ‘un-finishing touch’ – massaging the hair at the roots for a final bit of texturising.”